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Our goal—geographically speaking, anyway—would be to traverse the Ulaan Taiga's high country, a sponge cake of peat bogs, lakes, and streams enveloped by forested mountains.

This is the watershed for five major rivers, as well as the portal to the Dark Heavens, which Sardar describes as "a twilight world of lights, sounds, and voices."After a week of riding we would establish a base at the foot of Uma Tolgoi, which represents the earth mother in Tsaatan cosmology.

Watch clip on You Tube ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 5.

August 1967, Pat Jennings, Tottenham v Man Utd The ultimate long-distance goal.

Watch clip on You Tube ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 4.This time, I was joining what Sardar called "the most difficult and treacherous expedition in Mongolia."SARDAR SCHEDULED OUR TRIP for the end of July, allowing us to dodge the frenzy for internal flights during the Naadam festival in Ulaan Bator, which celebrates Mongolia's Three Games of Men: horse racing, wrestling, and archery.We'd also be out of the high country well before it turns into a giant deep freezer.Mongolia had changed a lot in the 20 years since my last visit.Ulaan Bator, a drab, Soviet-style city in 1989, had since acquired the trappings of a capitalist metropolis: flashing neon billboards, traffic jams, a glut of restaurants, and a thundering nightclub called River Sounds.

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